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Leaking Chines


The chine should have an insert of hardwood, from about 6 ft from the stem to the transom. 
I would suggest you first consider a temp repair till the end of season, but if you have time  and the leak is serious then maybe do the thing properly first off.
As a temp repair, scrape out the crack to a depth of half an inch with a bradawl or similar sharp tool.  If the wood is wet, as I suspect it will be, wash it out with fresh water to remove salt, then allow to dry for a day or two.  Hopefully the timber will be sound.  To dry the crack further, use metholated spirit and wash it into the crack, the  meths will absorb any water and evaporate it off.  Then use an epoxy putty and press it into the gap.  You can get epoxy now that will work under water, that will cope with any residue of water.
This aught to see the season out, maybe longer!
In severe cases I have cut out the wooden batten and used a grinder to ensure that all wet, soft wood was removed then thoroughly dried it over a month or two.  A new batten was cut to size coated in epoxy, the gap painted with runny epoxy and then an epoxy putty made up and forced into all joints, with batten of Iroko on top, really forcing glue in, no leaks after that!
The difficult thing is often the leak on the inside not being in line with the hole outside!  It can travel all along the chine before finding a way in.
One last thing, there were a few boats I have heard of that had a mixture of white lead and grease in the joints. A misguided idea. If you find this you might have to spend more time getting all this out, as it will not glue if greasy.  Meths helps here too!  Don't get high on it though!
Hope this helps.


John Williams