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Hi all

OK my GH 26 "Iris" is coming along nicely.

I replaced the jib with one from Arun/Rockall. I got it there because the original sail was made there - however, It is not the best - they had no record of the original, and it was not the angles I asked for... However, they acknowleged the mistake, and heavily disconted the price without complaint- so I would recommend - but be precise what you ask for!

I have replaced the ply under the teak deck (in the cockpit) with strips of Iroko - the ply was rotten, and was causing rot to spread into the cross member under the step and the starboard cockpit ply exterior bulkhead. most of the bulkhead was replaced with WBP (all I could get at 6 MM), scarfed to the original with an Iroko lath backing.
A little rot in the coachroof where a winch had been installed without any epoxy round the bolt holes. This I replaced about 1 M^2 with 2 pieces 3 MM ply X2 laminated together to get the curve - scarfed, to the stronger stuff.
Both were coated in 80 gm glass cloth (that coviscar is a waste of time) and faired in.
The oak (I think) crossmember had the rot routed out and sealed - with iroko 1X2 inch plank bolted and epoxied to the sound wood. A good job, I think (though not entirly happy with the filling between the teak which I put down - a winter job to redo, I think!

Had a few criuses IOM and Carlingford and round Strangford lough- good sailing and learning the new job - good sailing but its getting towards the end of the season now.

Anyway!
Plans for winter projects.
Plan to restore the rest of the teak decking - some of it has been sanded (by previous owners) to the extent that some of the plugs are rising out. This is an obvious damp/rot risk. Needs addressed. The complexity of the curve and the teak strips are such that I dont want to lift the deck if I dont have to. I will if I must though. Wet would rot even teak if left long enough.

The other project is more interesting. I have been working with making hollow tubes in wood. I have tried 2 piece (centre routed out) and 8 piece birds mouth type. I am making a hollow leg for a table (which is missing, but has a bracket). I think I have most of the hang of it now. Question though!
What length should a Whisker pole be? I was going to make one - I can get some Douglas Fir in 8 foot lengths. I think a pole around 2.75 or 3 inches diameter would be sufficient (I doubt i will try to taper it - but not sure yet!). Could anyone advise?

Regards
JFJ

Update

The whisker pole works fine - I made perhaps the only retractible one out of wood anywhere! The retraction happens like the seldon variants, but with the poles running along each other (like old 'Royals' poles on navy sailing boats). The runners are made from UHDPE (Ultra high density Poly Ethelyne) - (basically a white chopping board from Ikea) which provides self lubricating runners on an aluminium track.... Chord (dynema) is set on a rolling line from the base of one pole to the top (or middle) of the second - with a clamcleat to lock in place. You can pull it out or recover it with 1 hand. Means it also fits on the deck as the genoa is very large it would have been too long to use otherwise.... Of course, I only used it a few times, but an interesting exercise and looks cool (I think)...

More pressing.
Discovered that the PORT side of the cockpit bulkhead had extensive rot in the cockpit side as well - this time down to the tabbing on the GRP hull. I blame the compass cutout - and the way the deck of the cockpit was screwed to the oak beam. The rest of the beam is basically gone, and I removed the bulkhead by literally pulling it off by hand! Complete porridge. It was hidden by that accursid Cascovar which hid the underlying water ingress.

This year, I have replaced the rest of the beam accross the boat - this time with Iroko- 5/12 feet long and 3X2 inch and right accross the top of the engine bay (supporting the floor of the cockpit, coated in epoxy (a recycled and repaired exterior door frame from Gumtree!). after cutting the beam out, I replaced the rest of the beam and sikaflexed this to the deck (from underneath - no screws) and sistered to the earlier repair (didnt want to risk any rot carried over if I used a scarf with no space to work a tight fit). Obviously, a coat of epoxy over the underside of the deck to block screwholes.
To get access, I had to remove the galley. I am hopeful that I can reinstall most of it (except the worktop which needs a refresh) - easier than approaching this from a locker....
The bulkhead (structural) is being replaced with Birch Ply as reccomended by a local boatbuilder (he does not have any faith in local sources of Marine ply and the original looks like WBL was used anyway). The first part of the bulkhead/stringer is epoxied, and coated with some 80 cloth and reinstalled. This goes from the hull to half way through the new beam. It would prove impossible to replace the whole length in a single sheet) and the epoxy join provides an additional water ingress barrier to structural stringers. Thats installed now and 'going off'. Next step is to tab the new ply back in, and then build the next 3/4 feet up of bulkhead. It will also be coated in Glass and epoxy - however the difference here is that i will shape it and apply a new coat of 2 pack white to the replacement piece on the external side. I left the exterior oak trim in place to provide reference points in case any of the cockpit floor moved (I replaced the structural beam, afterall) - looks good so far. To be fair to the original building, it lasted a while - however - in ply the edge absolutely needs to be end treated with epoxy - cutout for the port and compass are the primary original problem (though fixings to the floor to beam and beam to bulkhead didnt help). The joint between floor and bulkhead is, I think, gong to have to be screwed, but this time with a layer of Sika and another of Butyl rubber to prevent leaks into the play (I dont particularly care about a drip into the cockpit lockers - they drain to the bilge - just into unprotected ply or the beam).
Another busy winter (I am also replacing the standing rigging as soon as I can get the furler off!)