www.eventides.org.uk

A bit old now, but winter is the time boats get painted! I can vouch for Weathershield for 'grip' areas. It already has sand in it, but I found it a bit fine, and added some more. I used it on my last boat, and it did well for perhaps 3 years until I sold her. Advantage, I needed a shade of purple (...

Hi - not on very much here, but if this is still a problem, here are a couple of suggestions. 1The connection between the bulkhead of the cabin and the floor of the cockput is kinda a standard problem with any GH with wooden bulkheads. While my GH (a 26) has a fibreglass hull (and cockpit floor and ...

Update The whisker pole works fine - I made perhaps the only retractible one out of wood anywhere! The retraction happens like the seldon variants, but with the poles running along each other (like old 'Royals' poles on navy sailing boats). The runners are made from UHDPE (Ultra high density Poly Et...

Well, I did manage to get the prop & driveshaft protected. Problem - the engine is an MD2020 - which means a eath break on the drive shaft (the coupling has some very important plastic washers to provide earth separation). So, plan B (this is more of a tip than a help) 1get a carbon brush assembly o...

For info (not that too many will need it!)

The RYA gave a preliminary score of 0.835 today.

I guess that an eventide with a simmilar loa would be around the same -

you probably dont race these boats - I dont - but it might be useful for occasional rallies and such.

Hi all Just wondering if there ever was an NHC score for either a GH26 or Eventides 26? Running with some of the club racing at my club, we seem faster than a Leisure 17 bilge keeler (there are 9 at our club), around the same speed as a white sails Leisure 24 (fin keeler) (faster with a good breeze)...

Hi there, good luck with your boat! I dont have experience with wooden hulls, but Iris (a golden Hind 26) has ply top-sides, and I do have some experience with glassing these for repairs. You can make fibreglass tape practically invisible for a repair - it flexes really well round curves. one thing ...

Well, I got my hands on a copy of 'boat owner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual' by Calder. Seems I went overboard on the cables - only need AWG 8. so important because the wire I have is expensive stuff and would be better off with other projects - pain to re-crimp too! As to the bilgteplate anode...

Hi all I had the steel keels of Iris shot blasted, and refinished in 3 coats of 'Jutonmastic 90' - an epoxy 2 pack marine primer. Looks a great job - havent antifouled yet. The previous zinc anodes did a great job on these wings - there were 2 bolted through each, with the metal cleaned in direct co...

OK With the Covid nonsense and lockdowns, the season wasnt as good as it could have been... though I did launch as soon as the RYA advised (Rear commodore Sailing this year - cant be seen launching when the club was officially closed) Solo sailed down the Irish coast from Killeagh (in Strangforde Lo...

Cheers John - appreciated. Mast is coming off this week. See the general board for the Iris Refit...

Hi guys OK I have Golden Hind 26 (very similar to an Eventide). This year I started using some of the other sails that came with the boat. There are 2 Genoas (instead of the Yankee). One is about 110%, and one Monster of about 130.... I have to take Genoa in a bit to tack round the baby stay - but t...

Hi all OK my GH 26 "Iris" is coming along nicely. I replaced the jib with one from Arun/Rockall. I got it there because the original sail was made there - however, It is not the best - they had no record of the original, and it was not the angles I asked for... However, they acknowleged the mistake,...

Well..... a wee update (I cant seem to upload pictures for some reason) The deck is off, down to the fiberglass. There is some crazing, as large screws were driven in, with no pre-drilling (I think). The glass was mostly fine, though, so I have over drilled the original holes (by about 50%) and fill...

:) When you are going round the cans, every 10th counts :) You are right though - Iroko (unsealed) develops a nice sivery finish - not as nice as teak, but nevertheless. Becasue of its calcium content (I have been told!) it is harsh on your equipment when working it - and you have to be very careful...